Hair Do's (and don'ts)

by Kris Abbey

A certain hair cut can dramatically change the way you look.

A certain hair cut can dramatically change and enhance the way you look. And it’s not just about the cut - it’s also about colour, care and condition. So put on your black smock and relax, we’re off to the hairdresser…

What is Hair?

Without stating the obvious, hair is a fine, threadlike structure made up of a tough protein called keratin. It consists of a root embedded in a follicle within your skin’s dermal layer, with a shaft projecting from your skin’s surface. As the follicle makes new hair cells, the old ones are pushed upwards towards your skin’s surface. Once the hair protrudes from your skin, it becomes keratinised, which basically means its cells harden and die. This is why you can cut your hair without experiencing pain. The same thing happens to your nails.


Hair Health

Stress wreaks havoc upon your hair, so ensure you eat plenty of foods rich in Vitamin B such as oats and cereals. As with any health regime, it is important to drink at least eight glasses of purified water every day. Like most parts of your body, hair needs to be looked after to stay in tiptop order. Here are some of the foods you can eat to help grow a great crop of hair:

Sardines

Sardines are high in protein, omega-3s and easy-to-absorb iron. Eating sardines helps ensure a good supply of oxygen to the hair root, which encourages regular growth of hair follicles and thus reduces loss of hair and the appearance of thinning. Protein is vital for a strong outer keratin coating on your hair. Omega-3s maintain the health of the scalp, keeping it well hydrated, flexible and resistant to dryness and flaking. If sardines don’t exactly whet your appetite, try mackerel, dark chicken and turkey meat, red meat, dark green vegetables and sesame seeds.

Crab

Crab provides you with copper, which helps prevent brittleness of hair. Crab may also help your hair retain its natural pigmentation as you age, thus slowing down the rate at which your hair turns grey. Crab contains sources of protein needed for development of keratin. If crabs are not within your budget, try walnuts, cashews, almonds and sunflower seeds.

Walnuts

Walnuts also provide you with the copper needed for production of the melanin pigments that give hair its colour and help it remain hydrated and thick. They also contain iron, helping prevent hair loss. Walnuts are an anti-cholesterol food, reducing build-up on blood vessel walls and keeping a strong flow of blood to the head and scalp. Omega-6s in walnuts also help keep the scalp healthy. If walnuts are not for you, try crab, mussels, whiting, liver or pulses.

Guava

Guavas are one of the best sources of Vitamin C, which keeps capillary walls flexible and maintains a regular supply of nutrients to the hair root. Vitamin C also helps balance protein absorption, preventing follicles from becoming blocked with keratin. Guavas contain carotene, which may protect the scalp from burning when exposed to sunlight. If guavas are not in season, try berries, oranges, capsicums, papayas, carrots or sweet potatoes.


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Hair Facts

• Hair is exclusive to mammals.
• Your body is scattered with millions of hairs - 10,000 of them on your scalp alone.
• Your genes determine how many hair roots you have, and this number stays the same throughout your life (although not all roots always produce hair).
• Different sizes and shapes of hair roots result in fine or thick hair.
• The way hair grows from its root determines whether it is straight, wavy or curly.
• Hair tends to grow faster in warmer climates.
• Hair grows upward from the follicle at an average rate of 0.3mm per day (1.75cm per month).
• Hair follicles have a growth phase lasting 3-5 years, followed by a resting phase, at which point the hair starts to fall out. At any one time, 15% of your hair follicles may be in the resting phase.
• Melanin pigments help protect your hair from ultraviolet damage by the sun, just as they protect your skin. These melanin pigments are called eumelanin (leading to brown or black shades of hair), phaemomelanin (leading to yellow and red shades) and oxymelanin (leading to very blonde hair).


Shampoos and Conditioners

Along with a nutritious diet, the shower contributes greatly to how your hair looks. The old saying ‘cleanliness is next to godliness’ certainly rings true for your hair, since the natural oils in your hair (as well as the use of hairdryers, styling product and spray) attracts airborne pollutants and dust.

Unlike your face, you don’t need to wash your hair every day, but if left unclean for too long, your hair becomes oily, limp, dull and dirty. Not nice! Regular washing with the right product helps you make the most of your hair. Washing too regularly strips it of natural oils, making it dry and brittle. No matter what hair type you have or what condition it is in, there is a shampoo and conditioner to match it. Keep in mind your hair condition can change with the season, or even the time of month, so you may have to switch your shampoo and conditioner accordingly. It’s time to switch products if your hair:

• doesn’t look shiny
• looks better the day after you wash it
• feels heavy and you feel it needs to be rinsed more
• easily knots and is hard to style

It’s important to note that sometimes your scalp may be dry, but your hair is oily, or (more commonly) your scalp is oily, but your hair is dry. There are shampoos and conditioners specifically for this condition. Garnier Fructis Fortifying Shampoo & Conditioner for Oily Roots, Dry Ends and Alonza Equivalence Combination Cleanser & Conditioner balance the natural oils produced by the scalp and restore moisture to dry and damaged hair.

Tip: Beware of harmful UV rays, even in the cooler months. Choose shampoos and conditioners that have UV filters. If your fitness routine involves a swimming pool, use a shampoo designed for chlorine-affected or chemical-affected hair. - Joe Gibara, leading Australian hair stylist

Coloured, Permed or Treated Hair

For coloured, permed or treated hair, use a shampoo with ingredients that are gentle and moisturising and don’t strip the colour. Shampoos and conditioners specific for coloured, treated or highlighted hair allow you to get the most out of your colour, while adding shine to grey hair and reducing yellow. To add nutrition, protein, shine and manageability to your hair, try Matthew James Moisture Seal Shampoo & Conditioner, the J Colour Shampoo & Conditioner, Alonzo Luminescence #2, or Jalyd Colour Saver Shampoo & Conditioner

Volumising shampoos and conditioners provide more volume because they contain proteins that bind to your hair. Look for ingredients like dimethicone copolyol, a derivative of silicone, which plumps up your hair. Some residue does build up with these products, so use sparingly. If your hair is fine, alternate with your regular shampoo and conditioner. Try ARTec Volume Shampoo & Conditioner or PPS Thick As Shampoo & Conditioner.

Tip: If you’re a regular user of styling products, rinse your hair with lemon juice or vinegar every now and again (not too often, since it dries your hair). The acid cuts through any residue that has built up from using the products. If you do this before you have a colour or treatment, it allows better penetration and more even absorption.

Tip: Conditioners should have a pH of 4.0-4.5 to maintain keratin and other proteins in the hair.

Tip: Most of us eagerly rinse out a conditioner before it’s had a chance to do its job. Conditioners should ideally be left in for 2-5 minutes (although in view of the current drought, you may wish to reduce the amount of water flowing while the conditioner works away)!

Snow Flakes

We all get the occasional flaking of the scalp. This is perfectly normal and doesn’t mean you have dandruff. Dandruff is characterised by a dry, itchy scalp and white flakes of dead skin. It is more common in men than women, and in people with oily skin types. The exact cause is unknown, but stress, sweating and hormones are all contributing factors.

For most sufferers, dandruff is a lifetime condition that can be controlled by using a medicated shampoo that removes the dandruff and reduces the rate of shedding. These shampoos usually contain coal tar, salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid), selenium sulfide or zinc pyrithione. Soncin Scalp & Hair Revitaliser (www.soncin.com), Alonzo Equivalence Sensitive and PPS Scalp Solution Treatment are specially formulated to treat a dry and itchy scalp. In the case of severe dandruff, where flakes are yellow and the scalp is red and inflamed, the problem may be seborrheic dermatitis, which requires medical attention.

According to Wendy Lewis, author of ‘The Beauty Battle’, dandruff sufferers should:

• Avoid heavy conditioners and styling products that coat your hair (and scalp), since this prevents natural shedding of the scalp and causes a build-up of flakes.

• Use clarifying shampoo, which may reduce product build-up and help clear the scalp of flakes.

• Switch to a gentler product if your scalp seems to be reacting to a harsh ingredient in your shampoo.

• Use tea tree oil, which can be helpful as an antiseptic.

• Give yourself regular scalp massages.

• Try to avoid centrally heated rooms, since a dry scalp can be aggravated by lack of moisture in the air.

Oil Slicks

Your scalp contains sebaceous glands, which secret oils to protect your hair and keep it shiny. Sometimes these glands go into overdrive and oil builds up on your scalp, giving it a greasy appearance. If the sebum hardens, blocking blood flow and nutrition to the hair roots, your hair weakens and can fall out. The excess oil also attracts dirt, leaving hair heavy, limp and dull.

Tip: To check if you have an oily scalp, part your hair and blot the exposed part of your scalp with white paper. If there is a grease stain, your scalp is oily.

Fine hair is most prone to looking oily and limp. This look is best avoided by washing daily with a mild shampoo. MOP Pear Shampoo, Natures Soul Herbs and Lavender Shampoo, and Ego Hairscience Shampoo all contain natural ingredients to promote a healthy scalp. It’s not necessary to use a conditioner, but if you feel you must, avoid those containing mineral oils and lanolin, which coat your hair. Only use small amounts and even dilute with water. Ego Hairscience Conditioner for Fine Hair is soap-free and extra mild, while Natures Soul only use natural and organic ingredients.

In humid weather, you may need to wash your hair more often, especially if it’s oily. In rainy weather, oily hair attracts moisture, which can make it go wild and woolly. This is when a finishing spray or an anti-frizz serum can save the day. Try Joico’s Travallo Design and Finishing Spray, or Matthew James Liquid Hairspray.

Dry Horrors

Dry hair doesn’t necessarily have insufficient oil and moisture content. If your hair is dry and brittle, instead of having normal shine and texture, it may be due to excessive washing, chemical abuse, heat processing, a hostile environment or even friction caused by over-brushing or the fabric of your pillowcase. If your hair is on the dry side, always use a conditioner after shampooing. Use Terax Shamp Collagene enriched shampoo and conditioner, Alonzo Luminescence Cleanser #3 shampoo and conditioner, or Jalyd’s The Shampoo and The Conditioner.

Treat thirsty hair by leaving it in a mask once a week. Hair masks deeply penetrate the hair shaft, helping restore moisture, elasticity and suppleness. They also add shine and volume to make your hair more manageable. Try MOP’s Extreme Protein, Lendan Activa Plant Repair 10, Alonzo Luminescence Essential Masque for Dry and Damaged Fine Hair, or Matthew James Conditioning Res Q Leave In Treatment.

Any tool that adds heat - hairdryers, straightening irons, heated rollers, etc - can cause further damage, so use heated appliances in moderation. Tongs and irons should be limited to once a week. Always blow-dry your hair using a thermal protection like Matthew James Daily Vital Rejuvenator or Alonzo Luminescence Smoothing Creme.

If your hair is constantly dry and breaks easily, and intensive conditioning doesn’t help, the problem may be more serious. Consult your doctor to rule out a metabolic condition, hypothyroidism and poor nutrition.

Tips for dry and damaged hair:

• Apply a drop of shine-enhancing serum or cream to damp hair after washing, such as PPS Shine It or Terax Original Gloss.

• Use a shine-enhancing spray if you have straight hair. Mist all over as straight hair is prone to flattening fast.

• If possible, let your hair dry naturally, or just blow-dry the top layer.

• Twice weekly, use a conditioner or a few drops of olive oil on the ends of your hair. Cover your hair with a towel and leave in for 20 minutes.

• During winter when the heater is on, use a humidifier in your home or leave bowls of water around so the air retains moisture.

Brush Strokes

I remember watching old movies in which the leading lady would sit at her dresser in her long, white linen nightdress and brush her hair (100 strokes) before going to bed. That seemed like a waste of time in my mind, since she was still going to wake up in the morning with bed-head! However, there may be some method to this madness, since a good brushing helps stimulate your scalp and brings a good, nourishing blood supply to the hair root. Brushing also removes hair that has fallen out and any dead skin on your scalp. A Pad Brush is perfect for this as it’s not too rigid, with wide-set bristles to really work the scalp.

Brushing is also good for styling, and using the right brush can take the hard work out of creating a style. For anyone confused about what brush achieves what look, let’s brush up on our brushes:

The Paddle Brush

This has a big platform that looks like a paddle. It’s great to blow-dry wavy or frizzy hair straight, while creating volume. Simply tip the head forward and brush your hair from neck to hairline, directing heat along the length of your tresses as you brush.

Vent Brush

This has vents, or air holes, in the platform. Great for creating a ‘flicked out’ look on layered hair and for grooming dry hair into shape.

Round Brush

This is cylindrical with short bristles protruding from the cylinder. Available in various sizes depending on the purpose. Use a large brush for straightening and smoothing curly hair. It can help smooth the cuticle, while adding incredible volume. A medium brush creates soft, sexy waves in longer, layered hair. It’s also good for straightening medium-length hair or for creating a sleek bob. A small brush is perfect for adding volume and height to shorter styles.

Combs

Combs are the great detanglers, but never use them on wet hair, which is weaker and more prone to breakages. Like brushes, there are many combs to choose from depending on the job at hand. A metal-tail comb is good to part and section your hair. A detangling comb has thicker, contoured teeth to allow for gentle untangling and to comb through conditioner. A teasing comb (ballpoint metal teeth) provides the dual action of lifting the hair while teasing.

Tip: When combing long hair, always work from the ends up to avoid tearing or damaging the hair.

Tip: Ponytails and tight braids tug on hair and cause breakages. If tying your hair up, use covered hair bands instead of rubber ones. The wider the band, the less tension on the hair. Vary where you wear your ponytails and occasionally wear your hair out to limit the stress.

Hot Air

The hairdryer is the most popular hair styling tool that uses heat. Curling irons come in second, and with the current trend for straight hair, straightening irons are right up there too. However, use hair styling tools with caution, particularly if your hair is not in good condition. Heat can literally boil the water content out of your hair shaft and severely damage the cortex. Too much heat makes any hair look and feel dry and lifeless.